BACK TO VULCAN HOME PAGE

Pictures here when I get them.

OK, so I picked up this air horn at Pep Boys for twenty-five bucks. I keep hearing about how easy it is to hook it up and all. Well it was, it just took me a while to figure out what I was going to do with it. I have a 1500A and most people are putting them on classics and such.

Anyway, I get the horn (two horn Blazer) home and start reading the instructions. First off it's describing instructions for using a switch to go from stock to air horn. I don't want that so I have to start interpreting them as if there is no switch and no stock horn in place. I get out the wiring diagram for the bike (both Kaw and Clymer) and determine that the wiring is of the type that the ground is on the horn button side, the horn instructions have different wiring depending on this.

I discovered for the first time how much easier an electrical project can be if you purchase the proper accessories before hand. In the past on most things (never on a Bike) I would simply twist wires together, add a little electrical tape, sometimes a drop of solder and I'm done. It doesn't look neat but it works. So I look at the instructions... FINALLY figure out what wire I'm going to hook up to what and go to the automotive store for some supplies.

I picked up:
black 12 gauge wire|
a bag of black tie-wraps (I got 300 varied sizes for four bucks)
an in-line fuse (blade style)
20 amp fuses (that's the size min takes)
male-female wire connector sets (will need 2 (probably) sets)
female spade connectors (will need 4)
pronged connectors (will need 2)(or whatever they're called)
glossy black spray paint (optional)
If you don't have one already, get a cheap electrical crimp/strip tool, it's much better than crushing the connectors with pliers.

I get the blade type in-line fuse rather than the glass type for two reasons. More of a seal with the rubber encasing for the blade type and I didn't want the glass to deal with the possible vibration and such. The spray paint (I'm amazed at how more efficient the nozzles are now a-days as opposed to a decade back or so when was the last time I purchased any) was to paint the compressor and the caps of the horns. The compressor was made of steel and cast so I painted it black to match the frame. The horns were made of black plastic but the caps on them were gray so I popped them off and painted them as well.

Take off radiator frame, original horn and it's brackets (keep them) and seat.

First run the wires. You need to add two wires to your bike, one from the battery to where the compressor is and one from the compressor to ground. You MAY choose to use another source other than the battery, it's up to you, I just felt it best to leave any other free accessory wire alone in case I want it for a real accessory. The ground one was easy. Short piece of wire with a pronged connector on one end. (Always start with the wires too long, you can always trim them down). I screw the prong end to the grounding spot at the bottom of the radiator grill, I think it's for the radiator fan or temp unit.

The hot wire is a little more involved (not much). The in-line fuse you bought has wires on either end, they may or may not already be long enough for under the seat. Mine wasn't so here's how mine is set up. I put in my fuse (wouldn't you feel silly if none of it worked because you forgot this <G>?) and used a male-female (or a tube type) connector to lengthen one side a few inches. On that side I put on a prong connector, this will connect to the positive battery post (don't hook it up yet until you know the other end is covered with something). On the other wire coming out of the fuse I put on a female connector, now I can put the prong under the battery post. Now I need to get a wire from the battery compartment to the front of the bike. After some shoving and such along the side/underside of the tank I figured that wasn't going to be easy (I'm too lazy to take the whole tank off for this) so I unbolt just the bottom of the tank (two bolts near battery), lift up and put a hockey puck there to hold it up for me. I then slid the wire easily (maybe I got lucky) from battery to the very front of the bike along the center of the tank. Took out hockey puck, gave it back to my son waiting for it and put the bolts back. On the side of this wire in the battery compartment I put on a male wire connector and hooked it up to the female end coming from the fuse, tucked it all neatly to the side in a space just the right size and put the seat back on.

So at this point you have the following at the spot where the old horn was:
a ground wire coming from the radiator
a hot wire coming from the battery, under the tank, and down the front.
two wires WITH the female spade connectors still on them from the original horn (no idea which is hot (they weren't marked) and I can't find my multi-meter)

Use tie wraps to secure the wires neatly.

Now we mount the hardware.

I decided on using the radiator frame as a mounting point for the horns themselves (they are very light), I have them pointed forward and down 45 degrees. They're mounted on the same side as the original horn. I figured out where I wanted them, drilled some holes and bolted them on with the included bolts. I added a couple of washers and a split lock washer to keep the bolts from sticking too far into the frame. I don't know if this would have been a problem but I figured it wouldn't hurt to be on the safe side and it never hurts to have a lock washer in place. One gotcha with this setup. When you turn the wheel to extreme right, the fender touches the horns, they flex with no problem (minor) so I'm not worried about it. What I may do and what you might consider is some spacers from the hardware store and longer bolts (don't forget wider washers) to stick the horns away further a couple of inches. If you plan on doing this, do it the first time around, you don't want to cut the hose (we do that later) for one length and then want to move things around.

Taking the original horn off I used the original brackets to mount the compressor and relay. I put the compressor on loosely to the bracket and loosely put the bracket back on the bike so I can see where to tighten the compressor so it's vertical. I take it off again and tighten the compress to the bracket. Put the bracket back on the bike, do the top bolt first and put the bottom one in second with the relay (had to widen the relay's hole with drill a little bit to fit bolt) with electrical parts pointed down. I put a drop of blue locktite on the bottom bolt because it's no longer going in as far as it use to. You can use a longer bolt if you feel safer that way. I tighten them all up. Notice I haven't done the hoses yet, that's last after I'm sure everything is where I want it and works.

So at this point you have the following at the spot where the old horn was:
compressor mounted in place
horns mounted in place
relay mounted right next to compressor.
a ground wire coming from the radiator
a hot wire coming from the battery, under the tank, and down the front.
two wires WITH the female spade connectors still on them from the original horn

Now the final hook ups

Now that you have the hardware in place you can measure out where the wires need to be and trim the hot and ground wires that you added to length and put female spade connectors on them, they just need to reach the bottom of the relay/compressor area comfortably. You'll also need to make a short wire with female spade connectors on either end that will go from the hot connector on bottom of compressor to one of the connectors on the relay. Here is where I tell you you'll need to reference the original instructions and here's why: The relay has numbers next to the connectors like 87,85,30 etc and I "could" tell you what wire to connect to what. But on mine, the instructions that came with it don't even match the relay. So I'll give you some generalizations and you use your instruction sheet to be sure which is which.

On mine the ground wire coming from the radiator gets connected to the ground connector on the compressor.

The hot wire from the battery goes to a connector on the relay, on mine it's the connector that is perpendicular to the one opposite it.

The short patch cord you made goes from the positive connector on the compressor to the connector on the relay opposite the one connected to battery.

This leave the two parallel connectors on the relay and the two wires from the original horn.

As I mentioned earlier they're weren't marked so it's test time. If you have a multimeter you can check that way o/w just hook them up which ever way, turn on the power to the bike and press the horn switch to see if air come out. If so, you're all set, if not turn off the bike and reverse the wires and try again. I got mine the first time (50-50 chance).

Now the only thing left to do is hook up the hoses. Just play around til you know where you want to route them and where you want to cut. They didn't include enough hose to make mistakes so be sure. I'll post pictures of where mines routed once I have them.

All in all they are much louder than the stock horn, it's not as deep a sound as I had hoped (it was strictly imagination) but the loudness is the important part. I have DG HardKrome Drag pipes and they would drown out the stock.

This diagram is much more useful for BUBF owners than the one that came with the horns.

wiring.gif (4004 bytes)

BACK TO VULCAN HOME PAGE

Where did you want to be today?

WolfCrews Books n Stuff

WolfCrews Home